Michelin plans Tokyo eatery guide, vows ratings won't be French-based

The Michelin Guide, the French bible of gastronomy, extended its global reach Wednesday by announcing its first guide to Tokyo's restaurants amid local skepticism that the French would be the best arbiter of Japan's culinary traditions.

The Michelin Guide Tokyo, set for release in November, is the first edition outside Europe and the United States in the renowned guidebook series that rates restaurants and hotels on excellence in cooking, service, decor and upkeep.

"Japan is a country where fine dining is an integral part of the culture," chief executive Michel Rollier of Michelin said in a statement Wednesday.

"Tokyo . . . seemed the natural gateway to (Asia), which is so rich in gourmet food and cooking traditions," said Jean-Luc Naret, head of the guidebooks unit.

To quell concern Michelin's ratings would impose French tastes on centuries-old Japanese customs, Michelin dispatched both Japanese and European food critics to Tokyo's eateries, company spokeswoman Yoko Ikejima said.

"Our staff is fully trained to base their evaluations on Michelin's universal standards, as well as on a full understanding of local traditions," Ikejima said.

A three-star rating in a Michelin guidebook means "exceptional cuisine, worth a journey." A two-star restaurant is described as "excellent cooking, worth a detour."

One star denotes "a very good restaurant in its category."

Some Japanese purists were skeptical.

"The French do not understand anything about sushi and are so far behind in handling fresh fish. So how can they judge us?" asked Yoshikazu Ono, master chef at Sukiyabashi Jiro, one of Tokyo's most famous sushi restaurants.

"If they want to appreciate Japanese cuisine, they must first study Japan's history and culture. Then they can write their guide," he said.

The Michelin Guide's Tokyo debut comes amid moves by the Japanese government to crack down on restaurants abroad that bill themselves as authentic Japanese -- but fall short of standards at home.