Saturday, Aug. 19, 2006

FEATURE

By JANE REES

The good old days, whenever, wherever, seem better than ever in these turbulent times. Then gradually everything seemed everywhere . . . I remember wincing when McDonald's first showed up in Tokyo, Maxim's appeared in Shanghai, sushi became bon appetit in Paris and all points east and west, guacamole came to Bali, and Trader Vic's popped up from Bangkok to Bahrain. Now it's the population that has homogenized all over the place.

If you are lonesome for Odessa, Addis Ababa, Tunis or Casablanca when vacationing in San Francisco, just hail a cab. In this case it's best to know how to get where you are going. In seven taxi rides last week -- all different cab companies -- there was not one driver born in America. The drivers from Ukraine were the most courteous and competent.

It was old Tokyo home week at a rendezvous in San Francisco . . . a gathering of friends who met once upon a time in Japan. The party was hosted by Jack Bissinger, a San Francisco native and architect who spent some early years with Skidmore Owens in Japan and now lives in peaceful Mill Valley. Jack was honoring visiting internationally famous hotel designers Patricia and Dale Keller. Pat and Dale were married in Tokyo in the late 1950s, later moving on to Hong Kong and worldwide fame both there and in London, recently retiring to their hometown of Seattle, where they have purchased a new condo in the lovely Bellevue area. Where, by the way, another Trader Vic's just opened. We all spoke of those wondrous midcentury days in Tokyo, which captivated us forevermore. Alice and Robert Piccus were there remembering those Renault minitaxis in which we could go from Uchisaiwai-cho and the Imperial Hotel all the way to Daizawa, near Shimokitazawa, for 60 yen. At that time rooms at the Imperial were about $ 50 -- top of the line plus the then favorable exchange rate.

I treasure a little book that the late legendary president of the Imperial, Tetsuzo Inumaro, gave me on learning of my interest in the hotel's history. The tiny hotel directory advised that jinrikisha were always available in the front of the Frank Lloyd Wright Imperial of the era, and the hotel bus would meet the morning and evening express trains at Tokyo Station, as well as the scheduled ocean liners. Metered motorcars were also available. Birds and animals were not permitted in guest rooms but would be cared for by the porter. Gambling throughout the premises was "strictly" forbidden. Room and restaurant charges were based on the European plan. Now hear this: Singles were $ 5, and $ 7 with bath; doubles $ 8 to $ 10. Dinner in the main dining room, table d'hote, cost $ 2. The hotel orchestra played sweet music form the lobby gallery every afternoon at teatime. Weather permitting, movies were shown during summer on the roof garden. And that . . . is the way it was. I won't let anybody borrow that book.

Planning ahead, the American Conservatory Theater of San Francisco has a full 2006-07 season of spectacular star-quality shows . . . old favorites such as "The Little Foxes" and "Blackbird" plus an exciting world premiere of "After the War" by Philip Kan Gotanda from March 22 through April 22 . . . book your tickets now. Making merry at Christmas will be the ever-popular "A Christmas Carol" by Charles Dickens. Check out the Web site for programs at www.act-sf.org.

A fascinating fellow, my friend Philippine Ambassador Romeo Arguelles, and his beautiful wife, Dr. Ennie Arguelles, whom many remember from Romeo's recent posting in Japan, were in San Francisco for a brief holiday late last month. Romeo is now envoy to The Netherlands. A stunning and unique couple, they first met when Romeo was consul general in the City by the Bay and Ennie was practicing medicine. Soon they were married, but Ennie as a fledgling doctor continued her medical career, becoming a bicoastal traveler every other month. After together attending celebrations for the Philippine national day as well as the queen's birthday in The Hague, the Arguelles flew to California for Romeo's annual attendance at the colorful and elite Bohemian Grove Encampment, where a merry time is always, always had by all (the fellows).

I'm packing light, leaving behind paraphernalia, crossing my fingers and flying over for a week back home in Tokyo.

Until the next time . . . see you.

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