Friday, May 12, 2006

COUNTER CULTURE

By MARTIN WEBB

It might seem safe to assume that with a rapidly dwindling number of kids being brought into the world here in Japan, the market for kids' clothes and toys would be shrinking fast. Not so: with fewer children around, more and more money is being spent on them, and a host of top-class kiddie stores are doing brisk business catering to those in search of a special something to lavish on a beloved brat.

The airy interior of French children's uber-brand Bonpoint (above); Isetan's Re- Style Kids (below); a cubby hole devoted to the brand Notsobig at Ribbon Hakka Kids COURTESY OF BONPOINT, ISETAN, HAKKA

Department stores lead the way in the high-end pint-size clothing segment. The runaway market leader is Isetan, whose Shinjuku flagship houses a mind-boggling selection of gorgeous clothing for tiny ones on its sixth floor. Boutiques from Agnes b., Cacherel, Dior, Ralph Lauren and many others are complemented by chic "select shops" like Re-Style Kids and Re-Style Baby, which carry punky threads from Undercover, ethnic chic from Marni, lovely print dresses from Mina Perhonen and lots of jeans in tiny sizes from trendy L.A. denim makers.

Another strong selection for the very young fashionista can be found at the Nihonbashi branch of Mituskoshi, where a vast range of Eurobaby labels are ensconced on the sixth floor. Highlights here include gear from Brit brand Burberry, prissy Italian bambino outfitter Miss Blumarine, French institution Sonia Rykiel Enfant and Dutch kindergartener clothier Oilily.

While department stores dominate, the ultimate Tokyo children's clothing shopping experience comes courtesy of Ginza's Sayegusa, purveyors of finery for small fry since 1869. Housed in a four-story Meiji Era building, this venerable establishment offers top-of-the-range baby and children's clothing and accessories on the first and second floors, party dresses and suits in the first basement floor and a made-to-order clothing service on B2. Expect impeccable service and gut-churning prices.

Luxury togs for tots at Sayegusa (above); colorful clothing for kids at LIMI feu prankster

One of the labels long since stocked at Sayegusa is that French proponent of sweet style pour les enfants, Bonpoint, who last month opened a flagship store on the outskirts of Daikanyama. This brand has stores in New York's Madison Avenue, London's Notting Hill and, since February, a luxurious 1,800-sq.-meter lifestyle store in central Paris. Bonpoint's peasant-child look has placed it at the top of the heap in the children's clothing world, and this spacious store epitomizes its winning formula.

The Tokyo style antidote to the frilly prim-and-proper togs so often foisted on toddlers comes courtesy of LIMI feu prankster, an all-new store showcasing the children's line of Limi Yamamoto, daughter of fashion paragon Yohji. Just down the street from kid-friendly eatery Fujimamas, this white-walled shop is equipped with a padded play area in which whippersnappers can be plumped down among a miniature mountain of toys while mom and pop choose from the wide selection of funky threads. Mother of two Limi has a keen sense of what trendy young Tokyo moms want their kids to wear and this store is proving to be a big hit.

Another overseas apparel maker to recently toddle into Tokyo is Notsobig, which lists moms like Kate Moss and Bjork among its customers. Also from la belle France, but far more funky than frilly, this label specializes in cutesy clothing given an impish twist and quirky stuffed toys that will appeal to grownups with a penchant for the kawaii. Besides a corner inside Nihonbashi Takashimaya, it also has a special corner inside the Aoyama branch of Ribbon Hakka Kids, a kids' emporium well worth a visit itself.

Bonpoint 14-7 Hachiyamacho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5459-2218 www.bonpoint.com Isetan Re-Style Kids & Baby www.isetan.co.jp LIMI feu prankster 6-7-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5464-2025 www.limifeu.com Mitsukoshi Nihonbashi 1-4-1 Muromachi, Nihonbashi, Tokyo. ( 03) 3241-3311 www.mitsukoshi.co.jp Notsobig/Ribbon Hakka Kids Aoyama From 1st Bldg. www.notsobig.fr Sayegusa 7-8-8 Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 3573-2441 www.sayegusa.com

For the brown-rice brigade who are averse to the plastic tack-filled warehouse shopping experience, there are plenty of places in Tokyo offering the sort of handcrafted toys endorsed by progressive educators.

While the overwhelming majority of the world's toys are now manufactured in China, Northern Europe was once Santa's workshop of the world. Long since out-priced in the mass market sector, the many long-standing firms in that part of the world have devoted their energies to exquisitely hewn wooden toys with Japan a highly receptive market.

Bornelund

Arguably the best place to buy into the oh-so-wholesome plaything thing is Bornelund, which means "children's forest" in Danish. With over 70 stores in Japan, these guys are definitely onto something. For the full experience visit the Harajuku flagship on Meiji Street, between Harajuku and Sendagaya.

1-13-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5411-8022
www.bornelund.co.jp

Crayonhouse

Crayonhouse is a favorite destination of expat parents due to its vegetarian restaurants, organic grocery store and decent selection of foreign language children's books. It is also home to Crayon Market, on the second floor, a store specializing in wooden toys, mostly from Northern Europe.

3-8-15 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 3406-6420
www.crayonhouse.co.jp

Bugs & Gardener

A tiny hole in the wall in the Naka-Meguro area, Bugs & Gardener is stocked according to the teachings of Austrian Rudolf Steiner, the founder of the Waldorf education movement. Besides an excellent selection of musical instruments for children, there are many natty little toys and a rack of understated, but very cool, clothing.

1-8-28 Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5728-3039
www.bugsandgardener.com

Niki Tiki

With corners in department stores all over Japan, Niki Tiki is one of Japan's foremost importers of European toys. It carries the wares of over 100 toy makers, mostly from Germany, Switzerland and Denmark. The firm's Kichijoji flagship and Hiroo stores are both veritable toy treasure troves.

Niki Tiki 2F Hiroo Plaza, 5-6-6 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 3449-3469
www.nikitiki.co.jp

Utoypia

Operating a stand-alone store in the posh Den-en-Chofu district, another in Aoyama and a modest outlet inside Ebisu Garden Place's Mituskoshi, Utoypia is another top-flight toy retailer specializing in high quality wooden toys from Europe.

6-32-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 3797-3304
www.utoypia.co.jp

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