Friday, Jan. 26, 2007

BEST BAR NONE

By JUDE BRAND

Asakusa is at the top of a short list of stops on every package tour through Tokyo -- whether foreign or Japanese. But it rarely rates as a neighborhood of preference for foreign residents, most of whom tend to secure living quarters as close to the gaijin triangle (Shibuya-Roppongi-Aoyama) as their pocketbooks will permit.

But not so Stevhen Koji Iancu, a young Romanian-Japanese musician who escaped from New York almost one year ago to take up residence in his mother's native land. Though his family visited Japan regularly until he was 10, his father's university postings made Portland, and later Chicago, his home base. From there, the move to New York made sense -- at least for three years.

"When my apartment burned down and I lost everything except my laptop and accordion, I found myself wondering what I was doing there," says Stefanko, who has cobbled his two first names together to create his current moniker.

New York's loss was Tokyo's gain, as we are now the ones able to regularly enjoy Stefanko's spirited live performances which, true to his Gypsy roots, are delivered in the genre known as Balkan beats. His accordion pumps out frenzied melodies in accompaniment to his mischievous, and sometimes maniacal, vocals. But unlike most of his fellow countrymen, he can sing in both English and Japanese.

Stefanko (top) hurtles through some rollicking Balkan rhythms for the crowd crammed into Gin Maku Rock bar, with the help of owner Hoshyou (holding mike), for its second anniversary celebration recently. Left, Ron, the punk-samurai behind the bar. JUDE BRAND PHOTOS

Asakusa was where he wanted to live because it was rich with memories from his childhood trips to the district. A group of chindonya, or wandering minstrels, whom he met introduced him to a CD shop in the area specializing in old Japanese folk songs. The shop's staff, in turn, told him about Gin Maku Rock -- a unique rock and enka den near Asakusa Park.

I, for one, am happy that they did -- because otherwise how would I have ever found such a treasure in the maze of back streets that surround the Kannon Shrine -- and just a stones throw from the notorious strip club, the Rock Za.

Asakusa is steeped in culture -- both high and low -- which delivers Gin Maku Rock an extremely diverse clientele, all of whom turned up for the bar's second anniversary party a couple of weeks ago. Gin Maku is tiny; it fits three tables and a few stools hugging a small bar at the entrance. The bar is so cluttered that there is barely room on the counter for your drink. And that night, in particular, it was packed.

Skinny kids with bleached hair poking out from under hats clinked drinks with rakugo performers in full kimono. And another fellow, I was told, was one of the best tattoo artists in the area. Gin Maku literally means "silver screen," and, appropriately enough, many of the 30-odd people assembled that night also jumped up to perform in the alcove (barely bigger than a bay window) which serves as a stage. Most sang self-penned songs accompanied by acoustic guitar -- everyone, that is, except Stefanko, who romped through a short energetic set.

Gyspy adventures Stefanko hosts a regular Balkan Odori event at Gin Maku Rock, usually on the third Sunday every month (but best to call and check). In addition to DJing, he also performs live with his band, Dolomites, which he has regrouped with local talent since arriving here from New York. Featuring accordion, darbuka hand drum and vocals, Dolomites perform two shows, one at 8 p.m. and another at 10:30 p.m. Stefanko is also planning two tours this year. The first, due to start in March, the "Wakkanai [don't know] Tour," goes to Sendai, Aomori, Sapporo and Wakkanai, one of Japan's northernmost cities and the inspiration for the name of the tour. A second tour is planned for summer. Called the "Naze [why] Tour," it will take in Osaka, Kyoto, Naha-Okinawa and Miyako. That tour is also named after an actual town, which Stefanko found on a map on a small island above Okinawa. He is also collaborating with DJ Kou to produce a single on vinyl (yes, vinyl), which they aim to release later this year. And he is working on a solo album of mostly covers of 1940s to '80s Japanese songs with new arrangements for accordion to create Balkan beats, electronica, and hip-hop versions. The album will also include original songs, such as "Kaminari Kaji (Thunder God Fire)." Contact Stefanko at stefanko@dolomitesmuzik.com or www.dolomitesmuzik.com

A girl sitting nearby informed me that the bar usually plays enka on its sound system on nonlive nights. Which they do, but in a very tongue-in-cheek way that complements punk and other forms of rock that get equal airplay. In fact, Hoshyou, the owner, plays double bass in Asakusa Jinta, his rockabilly band, and spent most of the anniversary festivities accompanying the guest musicians. The musical tastes at Gin Maku are -- necessarily -- as diverse as its denizens. It couldn't be any other way, especially with a manager like Ron, a cool, young Japanese lad who looks like he stepped out of a ukiyo-e print by Hiroshige but makes a yukata look more punk than cherry-red Doc Martens.

Gin Maku is both hip and kitsch. The interior is a riot of "traditional" Japanese knick-knacks, circa 1960 to the present. All the seasonal decorations that adorn shopping streets throughout the nation hang from the ceilings and walls -- plastic cherry blossoms, autumn leaves, snowflakes and aka-chochin (red lanterns) quiver in the slipstream from the air conditioner. And every kind of trinket or toy that can be bought at a festival street stall is tacked to the walls, along with samurai-movie posters, flyers for Asakusa Jinta events and autographs by famous -- and infamous -- patrons.

In the plethora of options that Tokyo holds, a night out at Gin Maku might just rock your perceptions of modern Japanese culture. Even if you can't speak the local lingo like Stefanko, which would be likely to enhance your enjoyment of the evening, the interior and atmosphere would be well worth the trip.

Gin Maku Rock; Touge Building, 2F, 1-41-5 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Tokyo; Tel: (03) 5828-6969; Open every night from 7 p.m.-2 a.m; Seating charge 1,000 yen. Drinks from 800 yen. Check www.asakusajinta.com

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